Winter Days in Strasbourg, France

Some of the small restaurants near La Petite France are the sheer definition of ambiance. [Click photos for larger versions]
Some of the small restaurants near La Petite France.
A characteristic establishment in La Petit France could not be more inviting.
La Petit France.
Friends enjoy the few, precious hours of sunshine during the short days of December.
Friends enjoy the few, precious hours of winter sunshine.
A sole gargoyle sits on the grounds of the cathedral as if keeping an eye on it for all eternity.
A sole gargoyle sits on the grounds of the cathedral.
The religious fervor of the locals was quite evident during the days leading to Christmas.
The religious fervor of the locals was quite evident during Christmas.
Cold December days convince customers to move inside, much to the consternation of the smoking crowd.
Cold December days convince customers to move inside.

Some travelers do not enjoy returning to places they have visited in the past, but I’m not one of them. Granted that with so many places to see around the world, it is perhaps advisable not to narrow your travel focus to a mere few of these. Nevertheless, there’s something nostalgic about visiting old stumping grounds after your feet have taken you far away from those familiar places, and for far too long. Strasbourg, France is one such place for me, and while it has been undoubtedly too long since I once roamed its streets accompanied by those happy days of youth, the magnificent sights of this great city still evoke the sense of romance and awe that was there when life was nothing but a long, uninterrupted spring.

During the month of December the city of Strasbourg, with its award-winning Christmas Market, dresses up for the holidays like very few cities in the world can. Anywhere you go in the Old Town there will be too much to see, too much to eat, and when it comes to that great, spiked wonder that is Gluehwine, too much to drink. And while in other places of the world people may complain about cold, overcast, and otherwise sun-deprived days, in Strasbourg these sort of days only add to the pure magic of the season. Small, cozy restaurants and cafes around the inner city will be beautifully illuminated and decorated, affording couples the perfect backdrop for conversation accompanied by a glorious Alsatian wine. Stopping during the blue hour on the Passerelle de l’Abreuvoir bridge to take-in the ancient rooftops surrounding the Cathédrale Notre Dame will transport you back to those days in the 17th Century when the cathedral was considered the tallest building in the world. And if it is your softer side you need to get reacquainted with for a change, just walk the narrow, twisting streets of La Petite France at night and you’ll be reminded that life is not just about speed, or about the eternal chase of golden mirages. Walking along these streets as if in a mindless drift, I could not help but think that the sheer beauty of this dimly lit city during the Christmas season had to be the perfect antidote to the many worries afflicting us these days. A beautiful city, lit by candlelight. An energy drink for the soul, and the stuff of which life’s most pleasurable moments are made of.

 

The Lakeside Town Of Como

Lake Como is surrounded by some of the most picturesque towns in Europe. [Click photos for larger versions]
Lake Como is surrounded by some of the most picturesque towns in Europe. [Click photos for larger versions]
Getting lost in the winding, narrow streets in town is the best way to find the region's hidden treasures.
Getting lost in the winding, narrow streets in town is the best way to find the region’s hidden treasures.
A typical, small bar down one of the many side streets in the old part of town.
A typical, small bar down one of the many side streets in the old part of town.
The small Piazza Duomo is lined with restaurants facing the imposing Cattedrale di Como.
The small Piazza Duomo is lined with restaurants facing the imposing Cattedrale di Como.
Street musicians bring a little romance to the old town.
Street musicians bring a little romance to the old town.
The Piazza Alessandro Volta  is typical of the small towns dotting the northern Italian lakes.
The Piazza Alessandro Volta is typical of the small towns dotting the northern Italian lakes.
During the spring season, and before tourists descend on Como in great numbers, you can have many streets to yourself.
During the spring season, and before tourists descend on Como in great numbers, you can have many streets to yourself.
The beauty of Lake Como attracts lovers from all over the world to its shores.
The beauty of Lake Como attracts lovers from all over the world to its shores.
Set of stairs leading to and from the town's main train station.
Set of stairs leading to and from the town’s main train station.

If I ever were going to attempt to write romantic novels for a living (don’t worry, I’m not), there is no doubt in my mind that I would do so from a place like Como in Italy. This sleepy, little town by the shores of the lake that takes its name, Lake Como, is everything you can imagine of the romanticism of a bygone era, and then some. What is it with these northern lake regions in Italy and southern Switzerland? To say they are beautiful doesn’t even begin to describe them, because they are so much more than that. In fact, I had once heard a Swiss actress in America say that she returned to her small village in the area every year in order to recharge her spirit. And now that I have had some time to wander in the area from Locarno in Lago Maggiore to Como, I now fully understand what this actress was talking about. Life at a slower pace, natural beauty beyond description, and some of the most wonderful food in the world combine to form the perfect antidote to all that ails us in our busy, chaotic lives. I may not know how many places in the world possess such wonderful potion, but Como definitely has its share of it.

Como the town is not a big place, but three main areas seem to dominate the region. For starters, there’s Lake Como with its postcard-perfect landscape. This southernmost part of the lake is quite a busy place, with ferries taking passengers to other famous towns around the lake and lovers slowly strolling down Lungolago Mafalda di Savoia as if oblivious to the world. The lake and its indescribable scenery are nothing short of visual candy, and sitting by that shore on a perfect spring day will be all the proof you’ll ever need that it is possible to be happy in this life.

The other two main areas in town are the city-center square, Piazza Alessandro Volta, and the imposing Cattedrale di Como at Piazza Duomo. Both extremely impressive and surrounded by small shops and quaint restaurants where you could easily pass the hours away with total disregard to time. In between these two, an old-world paradise for the senses makes sure that you never move at a fast pace while you are in town (which the many cafes in the area would’ve guaranteed anyway). Stopping every few steps to gawk at some window display while stopping yourself from spending your retirement money becomes virtually impossible in Como. This is what Italy does to you, and we love her for it.

On the train back to Milan I couldn’t stop thinking of how beautiful this country is.  Sitting in that train longingly looking out the window to the passing countryside before me, I couldn’t help but think that I had just been to one of the most wonderful places on this planet. And as the train got farther and farther away from Como, the famous words of composer Giuseppe Verdi kept replaying in my head: “You may have the universe if I may have Italy.” My sentiments exactly.

 

A Photographer Gets Close To Heaven

View from the  bell tower at the National Cathedral in Washington, DC.  Nikon D800, AF Nikkor 14mm f/2.8D ED.
View from the bell tower at the National Cathedral in Washington, DC. Nikon D800, AF Nikkor 14mm f/2.8D ED.
Partial view of the imposing crossing and transept.  Nikon D800, AF Nikkor 14mm f/2.8D ED.
Partial view of the imposing crossing and transept. Nikon D800, AF Nikkor 14mm f/2.8D ED.
Some of the most interesting  icons and sights at the cathedral can be found away from the main halls.  Nikon D800, Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM.
Some of the most interesting icons and sights at the cathedral can be found away from the main halls. Nikon D800, Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM.

Well, not that close and certainly not in any hurry to get there (a big assumption here, I know).  But climbing the bell tower at the National Cathedral is about as close as I have come to, you know, heaven.  This national monument has existed for 83 years now, but I hate to admit that even when I live in the area, this was my first real visit to the place.  Thankfully, none of the 88 angels carved around the building objected to my presence, but the 300+ steps leading to the top of the bell tower could easily be interpreted as a form of penance for my absence throughout the years.  Luckily, I wasn’t alone in that climb, so I’m thankful to all those folks who ignored the health warnings on the back of the admission ticket for keeping me company along the somewhat claustrophobic, narrow, spiral staircase to the top.  However, once you reach that bell section in the tower, it is not what’s inside that captures your attention.  Rather, it is the most incredible view in our nation’s capital, an endless sea of blue over a landscape that is just beginning to show the beautiful colors of spring.  And then, there were the bells.  Majestic, powerful, and crystal clear, they provided the perfect musical background to a perfect scene.  I really could have stayed up there for hours, and like Victor Hugo’s Quasimodo, I too found it hard to leave the Cathedral on such a wonderful day.